Removing the Crankshaft pulley on a 1970 VW bug
Removing the crankshaft or timing pulley from a 1970 VW bug, sounded daunting after reading and researching how it is done. I found this one video that helped.
1st was to remove the NUT which is a 30mm socket and a breaker bar I referenced this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-FIjU5weLg
My steps were to do exactly like this video said. Except I added some PB blaster for a day prior, then I removed the back tin, then I removed the center wire form my distributor, wedged the breaker bar against the body and tapped the key to start the engine. I know one of the comments said it is only 33ft, pounds tight and you could damage your engine, but on a 47 year old machine with some built up stickyness. I decided it would work after seeing every video say to do it this way and as long as I didn't start the car and only tapped the key it worked beyond my expectations. It was instantly loose and the bolt came right out. That was the easy part.
Getting the Pulley off proved to be tricky, part and there were a lot of articles on theSamba but none seemed to work, but this one gave the best advice, https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=470536
BUT what I actually did was place my breaker bar behind the wheel, and pry outward, then slowly rotate the engine and pry again. The one thing I was worried about was trying to keep the TDC in the right place because NONE of the articles mentioned that as a concern, AND ONLY after I got the pulley off I realized why, there is a little notch and because of that notch the pulley only goes on ONE WAY. so you can pry and rotate and not have to really worry about TDC being off or rotated, because when you put the new pulley on the notch allows the pulley to go on the way it is supposed to.
You can see it came off and it really was difficult but it helped to read up on it prior to actually doing it. Total time was about 1.5 hrs with the prying and reinstall.
But as you can see the prying takes its toll on the old pulley and it will not be able to be reused. so before doing this remember you need a new pulley and be sure you want to do this before proceeding....You may be able to use a pulley puller but I think you will need to remove the engine, if you want to go that route and try to salvage the original.
As you can see the pulley is pretty banged up. Oh Well I wanted/needed to replace it since I want to be able to know right where my degrees are and it looks better with an aluminum pulley.
Not a big fan of the Alternator Red Plastic thing that came with it and may switch that out after I find a nice Billet one at BUG JAM in November.
One thing I did learn is that when you clean things up from old grease and oil build up you can see where there actually may be a leak. In this case I found a leak and it was coming from the left top of the engine. So time for more research to see what I can find, BTW the leaks was huge, literally when I ran the motor the oil was just running down the left side of the motor, it was on the left above the jugs, but from behind the distributor and behind/under the left jug tin. and it ran down the front and pooled on the left side of the engine. Dripping as the motor ran. SO I have to make sure i check the oil regularly right now. Good thing I'm not driving it at all yet.
1st was to remove the NUT which is a 30mm socket and a breaker bar I referenced this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-FIjU5weLg
My steps were to do exactly like this video said. Except I added some PB blaster for a day prior, then I removed the back tin, then I removed the center wire form my distributor, wedged the breaker bar against the body and tapped the key to start the engine. I know one of the comments said it is only 33ft, pounds tight and you could damage your engine, but on a 47 year old machine with some built up stickyness. I decided it would work after seeing every video say to do it this way and as long as I didn't start the car and only tapped the key it worked beyond my expectations. It was instantly loose and the bolt came right out. That was the easy part.
Getting the Pulley off proved to be tricky, part and there were a lot of articles on theSamba but none seemed to work, but this one gave the best advice, https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=470536
BUT what I actually did was place my breaker bar behind the wheel, and pry outward, then slowly rotate the engine and pry again. The one thing I was worried about was trying to keep the TDC in the right place because NONE of the articles mentioned that as a concern, AND ONLY after I got the pulley off I realized why, there is a little notch and because of that notch the pulley only goes on ONE WAY. so you can pry and rotate and not have to really worry about TDC being off or rotated, because when you put the new pulley on the notch allows the pulley to go on the way it is supposed to.
But as you can see the prying takes its toll on the old pulley and it will not be able to be reused. so before doing this remember you need a new pulley and be sure you want to do this before proceeding....You may be able to use a pulley puller but I think you will need to remove the engine, if you want to go that route and try to salvage the original.
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One thing I did learn is that when you clean things up from old grease and oil build up you can see where there actually may be a leak. In this case I found a leak and it was coming from the left top of the engine. So time for more research to see what I can find, BTW the leaks was huge, literally when I ran the motor the oil was just running down the left side of the motor, it was on the left above the jugs, but from behind the distributor and behind/under the left jug tin. and it ran down the front and pooled on the left side of the engine. Dripping as the motor ran. SO I have to make sure i check the oil regularly right now. Good thing I'm not driving it at all yet.
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